You’ve been asking for it and now you can get all 4 of my collar designs in one pattern.
The Standard Point, Super Pointy, Curved and Double Curved Collars with 1″ stand are all included in this one sewing pattern.
You can make these collars from almost any fabric. I love making one up from the scraps from other projects. These make up great from classic shirt fabrics like poplin, quilting cotton, or get fancy with taffeta, satin or lace.
I’ve written out some very easy to follow instructions with clear illustrations which you can purchase here:
Pattern includes full size pattern pieces in an easy to assemble PDF downloadable pattern.
Fabric and Notions:
1/2 Yard of fabric will make 2 collars
1/4 yard of iron on interfacing
1 Button or snap fastener
And you can brush up on sewing perfect points for your collars in this post with some great tips Making Perfect Points.
I recently made some new towels from my Towel Topper Pattern. I still find these towels super handy around the house. When they get too old and ratty I toss them out and get to make more!
If you’re interested in making a few towel toppers of your own you can download the PDF pattern here (towel_topper) and the original tutorial is posted here. If you have a larger towel that you need to make a topper for just enlarge the pattern a bit.
Be sure to let me know how your towels turn out!
I’ve uploaded my Super Pointy Collar, corrected pattern for your personal use. I hope the instructions work, I did write them fairly quickly so let me know if anything is unclear. I have made this collar more times than I can count so I know the pattern works for me and I hope it works for you. See my post on how to make perfect points if you need a little help with the points.
*Make sure your pattern prints out at the right size, the ” fold” edge of the collar should measure 2.5″, you may need to adjust your print settings.
I have also designed collars with standard and curved points and written more detailed instructions with illustrations.
You can get all 4 of my collar patterns with new easy to follow instructions in one PDF downloadable pattern here:
I was asked to give some tips on how to make the nice sharp points like the ones on the ends of my collars. This is a little tricky but really just takes practice. I learned how to make great points by making lots of really bad ones first. I finally got a little bit of wintry sunlight to shine into my studio so I could snap a few photos to go along with the text.
While making this post I decided that I will follow it up with one of my collar patterns and a tutorial for how to make the detachable collar. But I need to get my pattern scanned first so enjoy this pointy tutorial and next Monday I will upload the collar pattern.
- You should sew your point with the tiniest stitch you can. This will help prevent the trimmed seam allowance from poking through the stitches after you have turned your point right side out. Stitch the main body of the collar with a medium stitch length then when you get close to the point stop sewing and adjust the stitch length to something smaller.
- If you can trace your stitch lines directly onto the fabric that will help you make sure your stitching is exactly where it needs to be. Make sure to mark your turning point on the fabric so that as you sew you will know exactly where to turn.
- When you get to the point stop sewing with the needle down directly through the point, lift the presser foot and turn the fabric so that the stitching line of the next side is lined up perfectly in front of the needle. Put the presser foot back down and finish sewing.
- Some people like to sew to the point then turn half way and place a single stitch across the point, then turn the rest of the way to continue stitching the other side of the point. I only use this method when I’m working with really thick fabric and then it works very well at controlling some of the extra bulk.
The real trick to good points is trimming the seam allowance. Imagine that the fabric you leave outside the stitch line needs to fit inside that point once it is turned. Trim as close as you can without endangering the seam, I would suggest never going closer than 1/8″.
- First cut straight across the point and then trim the sides in stages taking a little bit off then a little more until you think it looks right.
- You may want to grade your seam allowance to reduce bulk. This is done by trimming away more on one layer of seam allowance so that the cut edges are not even and won’t lay right on top of each other after the collar is turned right side out.
It’s a little tricky to see in this photo but this point has been graded.
Turning the point can be the most frustrating part and may take all of your patience.
- Before you begin to turn your collar right side out press the whole thing flat, this will set your stitching.
- Gently push the inside out with a bone turner being very careful not to push the point of the turner through the fabric leaving a hole. When you can see the point but it seems like it just wont come out you can switch to a smaller turner like a chopstick to nudge the end out.
- If the point still won’t come out you can try to gently pick it out with a straight pin. This is risky because if you pull to hard you may pop the seam allowance out through the stitches so be very careful.
you can also try takeing a needle threaded with thick thread and make a large knot in the end. Pass the needle through one layer of the fabric very close to the point and pull the needle out through the opening. Gently tug on the knot as you turn the collar right side out and the point should come out. Cut the thread close to the fabric and shake the knot out.
When you get your point turned out the way you like it press the whole collar flat with the hottest iron your fabric can handle. Pressing makes everything look better!
Your best bet is make a few samples. Just using the point part of your pattern cut out a few sets that you can practice with. Make sure that you are using similar fabric to that of your final project and that you cut the pieces following the grain line indicated on the pattern.
Just go slowly and thoughtfully, you don’t want to ruin your project by being hasty.
Just found this great tutorial from Yellow Suitcase Studio on making a patchwork blanket from felted sweaters. I love this idea, looks like it would make a great gift too. This tutorial is really well done with lots of great photos.
I love this tutorial on how to DIY your own Miu Miu wanna be sneakers that I found on Honestly WTF. Hmmm, just might have to try this.
images from HonestlyWTF
I have this vintage towel from my Grandmother with a fabric topper that buttons around a towel bar. We use it all the time and I’m afraid we’ll wear it out. To make more I started collecting little vintage handtowels and made a pattern for the topper. They’re easy to make and only use a small bit of fabric so they’re great for those little vintage scraps.
You can find a PDF of the towel topper pattern here.
You’ll need one 12″x 9″ scrap of fabric (or two 6″x 9″ ones). After you cut out the pattern, sew around the outside edge using 1/4″ seam allowance. Clip the inside curves and notch the outside curves. Turn right side out and press. Fold the open edge 1/2″ toward the inside and press.
Get your towel ready by trimming off any extra bulk at the top like fringe, tags or seams. Dress up a plain towel with some ribbon along the lower edge.
Arrange several tucks in the front along the top of the towel until it measures 4″ across. Insert the top of the towel into the topper about 1/2″. Pin or baste in place. Stitch across the topper opening about 1/4″ from the edge being sure to catch all layers. Top stitch all the way around the edge of the topper about 1/8″ from the edge. Make a button hole in the end of the tab and sew on your button. Your towel is finished and ready to be displayed and admired!